Can I fit a baby seat in my Smart Car?
Yes, however Forward facing child restraint systems may only be fitted to the front passenger seat if it is moved to its rearmost position. *safety note potential hazard item*
Yes, however Forward facing child restraint systems may only be fitted to the front passenger seat if it is moved to its rearmost position. *safety note potential hazard item*
Yes. Usually if the light is on the unit will default to non-function. If you have side airbags often moving the seat can cause the light to come on, the cables are secured under the seat and moving the seat or putting items under the seat can disturb the wiring. Get it checked out on a Smart specific diagnostics machine by a professional. *safety note potential hazard item*
The battery can be located under the carpet beneath the area where the passenger foot well, you need to ensure all electrical devices are off, lift the carpet and remove the foot support (usually secured by 2 fasteners) by sliding it out of the car sideways, first unscrew the negative then the positive terminal. *safety note potential hazard item*
Have someone check the ABS reluctor rings (they are at the end of each rear driveshaft), these corrode and split over a period of time making the ABS not work when it should be, the split rings give incorrect signals to the ABS sensors that in turn makes the ABS pump unit work when it is not required. Fit new driveshafts or have a qualified person replace the ABS timing rings. *safety note potential hazard item*
It’s probably the exterior handle. The handle’s cable has to make a tight turn (through 180 degrees) once inside the door and the cable suffers and becomes stiff and finally breaks. A new unit with Bowden cable is usually required. Inner handle not working – usually just the cable unless the inner handle is faulty too.
There is a cable and on the end is a barrel pin that locates in the door mechanism, this works its way out, usually there is nothing broken it can be refitted and secured to reduce the chance of it happening again.
No, it is not recommended, as there is a formula for determining the size of the aperture in the dump valve. Thus, most dump valves simply dump too much boost for the Smart instead of preventing the turbo ‘stalling’ (stopping as boost backs up in the system as the throttle is shut), it dumps too much boost causing the turbo to over speed risking damage to the turbo bearings.
Firstly lets get this into perspective. A 61bhp 599cc car is making 101.83 Bhp per litre which is very impressive, and the same specific power output as an E36 BMW M3. It is a little engine with only 2.7 litres of oil to cool and lubricate it. Most are driven flat out, full throttle everywhere, and often undergo poor maintenance. For example: sometimes only 3 spark plugs have been changed (they have 6: two per cylinder), they are given the
No not necessarily, the smart car has set parameters for all the engines settings, by changing them from standard you run the risk of the engine management unit thinking there is a problem. Changing any part of the car can cause this but exhausts and air filters are most common. NB. You can buy a unit that fits between the exhaust and lambda sensor that alters the reading reducing the chance of the engine light coming on.
Yes, the noise could be the top of one of the front coil springs shearing. Did you find an inch long piece of black/rusty semi-circular metal nearby? The front end of the car suffers all the crashes and bangs you too feel from the car’s suspension. The springs seem to rub in the top cup causing damage just as it locates in the top cup. Over a period of time this gets worse until the spring shears off. NB always
It depends on how much is being used up: If it’s more than 500ml per 500 miles or 1L per 1000 miles then yes, the engine may be on a downward spiral. It’s likely that the oil control rings are gummed in place by carbon, allowing excess oil to enter the combustion chamber and be burnt in the normal combustion process. The temperature inside the turbocharger unit is high and the oil is almost always evaporated by the time it
451 petrol: 3.3 litres / 451 diesel: 2.7 litres
A 450 Petrol 1998 – 2004: 2.7 litres / A 450 Petrol 2004 – 2007: 3.1 litres / 450 Diesel: 2.7 litres
It could be. It’s more likely that the key has fully discharged, lost its coding and will have to be re-coded along with the car and any spare keys you might have. Try to use both keys equally and often to prevent losing the coding. There has been no satisfactory explanation as to why they do this. If the battery is low the indicators will flash 9 times quickly (indicating you can use it 100 times more – so change
Most likely it’s the connection to the switch itself, they seem to have a poor connection there and the connection arcs and burns away the metal in the switch unit. It needs repairing, sometimes a piece of wiring loom and connector are required and sometimes the central console unit will also need to be replaced
It needs to be checked and the correct problem identified. Usually a new heater control is unit fitted (the bit with temp scale on it – see if yours is in warranty or not).
The resistor is faulty and needs replacing, its a simple job and not too costly
It’s probably the headlight adjustment motor, they can fail and the noise you hear is them perpetually adjusting. Replacement or disconnect and correct setup on a MoT alignment unit are the alternatives. April 2012 brings new mot legislation that may require new units fitted and aligned with adjusters working correctly.
Yes, refer to your manual for how to change the headlight bulb.
No, either you have the skill or you don’t. If you try to change the bulb and accidentally dislodge the spring clip the headlight has to be removed and the front end will have to come off as well to replace it. The headlight will then need realigning too. We would recommend going to a Smart specialist garage who will have experience with this.
It’s probably the rear shoes and adjusters that need cleaning and adjusting properly, these usually get done about every 4th year – it could be the rear wheel cylinder seals have failed and are weeping brake fluid. A competent garage can remove the rear hubs and clean and inspect the cylinders and replace and adjust as necessary.
Usually 3 lines relates (shifting system fault) to a electro/mechanical problem with gear selection rather than a signal control problem see gear selection Q and A
1 Can bus malfunction – the line usually indicates a system fault usually a signal or communication error, this really needs to have diagnostics run by someone experienced with a star machine and Smart Car knowledge.
It could be one of several things: 1. Check the rear lights to see if the brake lights are working; if not then it’s probably the brake light switch which is faulty and needs replacing. (On a 450 it’s between the under tray and the car chassis and it helps to have the car on a ramp. On a 452 or 454 it’s under the brake pedal in the foot well.) 2. Then the wiring to the gear selector motor
First thing to check under the rear of the car is the waste gate arm, it’s held in place by a tiny E clip and these can rust and fall off meaning no boost will be allowed at this point. Be careful as the exhaust is very hot and you need a clip to be able to fix it. *safety note potential hazard item* Secondly, if the car is standard get the car diagnostics checked. It could be the cycle
Applies to 452 450 Answer: No it will burn out very quickly, it would be like putting a plaster on a broken leg, the problem will happen again (as quickly as 3 weeks, we have seen very unsatisfactory repairs), the only satisfactory option is to replace or get a professionally rebuilt engine. The condition of the bores and the pistons and rings may determine if the engine will need a rebore and new pistons
The immobiliser is still on. It turns itself on automatically after 60 seconds if you have not started car after unlocking it. Remove the key and unlock the car again. Then, replace the key and start as normal. See next section.
Well, if the boost level is increased or a free flowing air filter fitted you will hear this noise, it the sound of the boost in the turbo being released as the throttle is closed.
It likely the key has lost its coding (9 indicator flashes should accompany this when pressing the key fob unlock or lock button if it’s faulty) and will have to be re-coded along with the car and any spare keys you might have too. They all will have to be taken to someone with a Star Diagnostic machine to re-code them all together. Its worth getting an additional new key before so you can get it coded at the same
It sounds like the turbo has a damaged inner part, the impeller blades can spin up to 2000 times a SECOND and any damage to these special blades will make a whistling noise.
It could be. It’s more likely that the key has fully discharged, lost its coding and will have to be re-coded along with the car and any spare keys you might have. Try to use both keys equally and often to prevent losing the coding. There has been no satisfactory explanation as to why they do this. If the battery is low the indicators will flash 9 times quickly (indicating you can use it 100 times more – so change
Yes, see section 10- 34 of the of the manual. The ignition must be switched on. If the car is being towed, **the gearshift lever must be set to position N and the dash read N for neutral or you risk terminal engine damage** If you have had gear selection problems do not tow. *safety note potential hazard item* Towing notes: Only people with a certain amount of experience should tow. A metal tow pole is the best option *safety note potential hazard
It could be. It’s more likely that the key has fully discharged, lost its coding and will have to be re-coded along with the car and any spare keys you might have. Try to use both keys equally and often to prevent losing the coding. There has been no satisfactory explanation as to why they do this. If the battery is low the indicators will flash 9 times quickly (indicating you can use it 100 times more – so change
Yes, see page 245 of the manual. The ignition must be switched on. If the car is being towed, **the gearshift lever must be set to position N and the dash read N for neutral or you risk terminal engine damage** If you have had gear selection problems do not tow. *safety note potential hazard item* Towing notes: Only people with a certain amount of experience should tow. A metal tow pole is the best option *safety note potential hazard item*
Yes, see page 262 of the manual. The ignition must be switched on. If the car is being towed, **the gearshift lever must be set to position N and the dash read N for neutral or you risk terminal engine damage** If you have had gear selection problems do not tow. *safety note potential hazard item* Towing notes: Only people with a certain amount of experience should tow. A metal tow pole is the best option *safety note potential hazard item*
Yes, it could be your electric power steering, they can work intermittently causing the steering to be easy or difficult as the power steering goes on and off again, clean and check the electrical terminals and check the wiring if it continues it may require a new power steering and rack. *safety note potential hazard item*
It is unlikely to be a power-steering on a fortwo as most don’t have power steering. It’s more likely to be the universal joint in the steering column. There are two, one inside the car and one outside the car. One is under the under tray, and is exposed to all the water and rubbish thrown up from the roads. *safety note potential hazard item* There are two options: 1. Replace the steering column or remove it, clean it, re-lubricate it and
It’s probably the steering wheel angle sensor which has failed, these cannot be bought separately, only as a whole steering wheel. The problem needs a diagnostic machine to verify, if this is the case a new steering wheel is the answer. The car looks to the steering wheel angle sensor to see how much steering input you have when deciding how to brake safely in an emergency. Safety note: the ABS and ESP may not work properly in an emergency
Yes, see section 9 36 of the forfour manual. This is the procedure from the manual for the 450 / 452 always make sure it is safe to do so *safety note potential hazard item* Turn ignition to position 1 Put the handbrake on Press the footbrake and hold Hold the gear lever in the forward + position Release the footbrake Press the accelerator to the floor (while stationary) Release the handbrake and start rolling (you need a good shove though or